Italy’s ultimate answer to bacon: Guanciale

By November 10, 2010 66 comments Permalink

Bucatini all’amatriciana A recent year in Italy taught me that the pig is the king of its gastronomic jungle. Italians heart hogs. They prepare every imaginable part in every imaginable manner: cured and roasted and braised, even slow-poached in olive oil. One terrifying morning, in the back of a butcher shop, I ate it raw,…

Finding Julian

By September 10, 2010 257 comments Permalink

  Andrew Cotto loses his son in a museum—and finds a new approach to being a good dad.   Upon hearing that our second child would be a boy, I walked out of the doctor’s office, crossed 8th Avenue, and stepped into a Mexican restaurant to drink something with tequila in it. Then I drank…

They’re Stealing My Sky

By March 12, 2010 357 comments Permalink

Mark Lennihan/Associated Press The skyline grows in Brooklyn. Complaint Box Fit to Be Tied? Send tales of ire and indignation — no more than 500 words, please — to: We left Manhattan for Brooklyn in 1997. Even then, before it was the rage, it felt like a destination. We kept track of all the…