Italy

Our Italian Year – January

By January 22, 2012 no comments Permalink

Melancholy arrived with the New Year. The novelty of our living in Italy had diminished somewhat. We’d fallen into a routine, and we also happened to be three months into a heavy rainy season. The sound of steady sheets on our terracotta roof had grown increasingly intolerable. Also, we were sick. Sophia had started at…

Our Italian Year – December

By December 16, 2011 2 comments Permalink

Paolo’s forno billowed wood smoke over the olive grove. The December afternoon smelled of burning pine and rosemary. These were good days. Days when the outdoor oven cranked and Marta and Paolo had invited us next door to their villa for dinner of pizza and misto’rosto (mixed roast). Marta, predictably, was an accomplished cook. Her…

Our Italian Year – November

By November 24, 2011 no comments Permalink

The harvest hit its peak in early November. The whole commune buzzed with activity involved in the picking and processing of grapes and olives. In every grove, in every vineyard, men in flannel and denim and tweed plucked ripened fruit. Three-wheeled Apes (or “bees”) zipped along the narrow streets on their way to the mills,…

Our Italian Year – October

By November 7, 2011 no comments Permalink

Our Italian Year – October Our new home had a large terracotta terrace on three sides and an olive grove for a backyard. A sagging fig tree loomed over the stone staircase that led to the grove. Inside the barn doors was a lofted ceiling and sparse amenities fronting an open yet small kitchen stocked…

Our Italian Year – September

By September 26, 2011 no comments Permalink

Arrival I’m usually fidgety on plane rides of any length, and my previous overnight trips to Europe had been disasters of insomnia that left me bleary-eyed and displaced for the first few days on foreign soil. But I slept almost the entire flight from New York to Nice. The exhaustion from all the preparation of…